Friday, December 4, 2009

An Eventful Final Week

To start, I’d like to apologize for the bombardment of final blog posts this week. (There's one more coming). The internet has been so poor in San Pedro that checking an email had become a 40 minute ordeal.

After my dad left on Sunday, I thought I would just be killing time for a few days before I left on Thursday. With exams in all the upper division classes, I didn’t have any opportunities to work with students. All I really had left to do was give some gifts out that my Dad brought down from the States. A couple weeks ago, I took pictures of all the kids in Miss Laura’s class and had prints made at Costco. I gave a picture to each kid in the class and then I gave a set to Miss Laura. My parents also sent down some Avon goodies for the 6 kitchen ladies. There were some extra lip glosses that will be Christmas gifts for some of the upper division girls.

On Monday morning, I went to school like normal and started to wrap things up. A group of dentists also arrived and before I knew it I was recruited to be a dental assistant. They sat me down in the chair and handed me the water rinser and suction tube. By the end of the day I knew all the different instruments used for a typical check-up, cleaning and amalgam filling. They’ve got some weird names for their tools.

Holy Cross started the free dental clinic because there is such a strong correlation between a healthy mouth and a person’s overall health. Students at Holy Cross receive free dental care 1-2 times a year. The volunteer dentists can do everything from cleanings and x-rays to fillings and teeth extractions. In the spirit of Belizean living, the instruments run off of the compressed air in scuba tanks. Dr. Mark Johnson, who lives part time in Belize and runs the dental clinic at the school, is originally from the Twin Cities area. He recruited two other dentists who went to the University of Minnesota dental school with him, Dr. Mike and Dr. Chuck, to come down to Belize for the week. Dr. Mike brought his son down with him to be his assistant so I worked with Dr. Chuck.

The range of oral health that these students have is unbelievable! We had lots of kids come in who had no cavities and no serious plaque build-up on their teeth. On the other end, there would be 5 year old kids whose mouths looked like a war zone. These kids would have 6-7 cavities, but not little cavities that were caught early. Their teeth had huge holes in them. One of the many “dentist lingo” things I learned was the term “bombed out.” When a tooth (usually a molar) is bombed out, it looks like a crater because the decay has eaten the tooth away down to the pulp. The circumference of the tooth is rather intact but the whole interior is black, depressed and looks like someone set off a bomb in it. There were some kids that had 2-3 teeth like this with lots of other smaller holes all around their mouth. I can only imagine how painful it is to eat! During my time there, I learned all about amalgam fillings and taught lots of kids how to brush their teeth properly. I also got to help with teeth and root extractions on some kids. Personally, I’ve had lots of fillings, 2 root canals and orthodontia (thanks Mom and Dad) but these 5-7 year old kids have experienced things I can only imagine. They are very lucky that the volunteer dentists are there for them. In the December 3rd edition of Ambergris Today, there is an article about the dental clinic and I’m in both pictures. Exciting!

Later Monday afternoon, I had to take a break from the dental clinic to go get my visa renewed. It was a little silly because I was renewing it for my last 3 days in the country, but I didn’t want to take the chance of getting caught. I was so nervous to go to immigration. I have heard (and experienced) so many horror stories about the government and how difficult it is to get anything done. Unlike most 1st world countries, you can’t look up all the rules, regulations and procedures anywhere; you just have to figure it out the hard way. I did learn the hard way. When it was my turn to renew the visa the immigration officer asked why I was behind a month of my visa. “Where’s your visa stamp?” “Stamp?” Last month I went to immigration, signed into the book and got the $25 bill to pay. So I went next door to the treasury department and paid the bill. Then I asked the treasury guy if there was anything else I had to do. “Nope you’re all set.” So I went home. Well…. apparently I was supposed to go back to immigration office with my paid bill to get a stamp. But of course, in Belize, no one tells you this. Luckily, the officer was really nice and let me bring in my old receipt from the previous month to straighten everything out. I’m actually really surprised that he didn’t give me a harder time or make me pay some sort of fine.

I had a wonderful send-off on Wednesday afternoon. Miss Laura’s Standard V class made me a big card and each student made me a personal thank you note. A bunch of the students got up individually and thanked me for something in front of the whole class. It was so sweet and I had to try really hard not to cry. They also got me this really cute beach bag with bamboo handles that has Belize embroidered on it. After that, the staff had a little going away party in the cafeteria with my favorite cake, Tres Leche Cake from Casa Pan Dulce, the most amazing bakery ever (my father can attest to this). That night I went out to dinner with the Wilsons at Waruguma Restaurant (another favorite) where I had pupusas for my last night in San Pedro.

Thursday went by in a flash. Before I knew it, I had my whole apartment packed up and loaded into Mr. Victor’s taxi. I had a couple of errands to run before I went back to the school for some last goodbyes. The wonderful ladies at Vern’s Kitchen (where I ate at least once a week) gave me a plate of fried chicken, rice and beans, coleslaw and fried plantains to take to the airport in Belize City. It sure beat the granola bars I had packed for lunch. So here I sit in Belize International Airport, anxiously awaiting my flight back to snowy Colorado to see my wonderful boyfriend!

Greg and Julie's Amazing Adventure


For those of you who know my family well, you probably already know that there is never a dull moment when my dad and I are together. Last week was no exception.


My dad arrived last Saturday and spent the next 9 days in San Pedro with me. The fun began as soon as we walked in the front door of my little casita. My dad must have traveled with a bunch of cockroaches and brought them with him. During my first 7 weeks here, I have only seen 3-4 cockroaches in all. The first time I saw a big one run across my floor in my 2nd or 3rd week here, I took a bunch of plastic and jammed it in all the small cracks between the wall and floor where I thought they were coming from. I saw 3 within my Dad’s first hour in Belize. I think roaches are naturally attracted to him. On my parents’ honeymoon in the Caribbean, the roaches used to take over the floor of their casita and they had to spray a path to the bathroom every night. Anyways, in all my paranoia, we went to the store and bought 2” wide masking tape and roach spray and taped up every crack we could find. So far so good but my dad was not too enthusiastic about sleeping on a camping pad on my floor. My bed is about the width of a backpacking tent, so we both camped out on the bed for the next week. The Wilsons did generously offer us a place on their boat for a few days but we were already pretty settled in at my place.
On Sunday we did the tourist thing and went windsurfing a couple miles south of town. The wind was marginal but it was still nice to get out on a board. Unfortunately every time I went to Wilmette this summer, I never got the opportunity to go windsurfing. I’m proud (sort of) to say that my first day of windsurfing in 2009 was on November 22. We spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the Tides Hotel where I know the bar tender, Adolfo, well from my frequent visits. It was refreshing to take a dip in the pool and read in some comfy beach chairs. That night we had a hardy dinner of pupusas (a Salvadorian stuffed pancake) and some amazing seafood and chicken burritos. Yum!
On Monday we reported for duty at the school. Dad got the grand tour of the place and got to see how much it has grown since we were here as a family 2 years ago. Afterwards I put him to work helping me give reading tests to the Standard IV students. My mission was to give a diagnostic reading test to the upper division students. The test was the Burt Reading Test (google it). It’s a list of words that starts with simple words (to, is, he…) and progresses to really hard ones (perambulating, subtlety, phthisis). Based on the number of words that the student can pronounce, one can estimate their reading age (i.e. 7 years-2 months or 12 years-11 months). It’s a simple test for a rough estimate and does not test the student’s comprehension. Dad helped me with that each morning, which allowed me to finish administering all 90 tests for the school before I went home. 
Last week was the big multiplication test for the Standard V class. An ice cream party was at stake as any student who scored higher than 85% got to partake in the fest. I am so proud to say that all but two students passed! When we started practicing the times table, the average in the class was about 78% percent. By the end, the class average was around 95%. The kids worked hard and everyone who put effort in to the task passed. The two that didn't pass didn't take the challenge seriously so they didn't get to reap the benefits. Hopefully it will be a life lesson. Monday afternoon Standard V got to enjoy a bowl of strawberry and chocolate ice cream.


In the afternoon, Dad became Mr. Handyman. Mr. Vernon put him to work with lots of jobs. He started out fixing locks on cabinets in the computer lab. Then the both of us installed about 30 cabinet catches on the other cabinet doors in the lab to prevent them from spontaneously swinging open. As tedious and repetitive as the job was, the two of us got a system down to make time fly. Dad even had time to switch into “Dad-mode” and teach Keinie (Miss Laura’s daughter and my little buddy) how to drill a hole with the drill. Keinie was crawling in one cabinet and out another 3 doors down, just like I did when I was 3 and Dad was remodeling the kitchen.
Dad’s big project for the week was to tile the front entrance way to the office. A previous group had started the job but had used 3 different tiles of 2 different sizes, so it was already a little messed up. Remember, this is Belize. I think the previous volunteers stopped because they realized how hard the back was to tile. There are two benches that are nailed to the floor that the tiles had to work around. Of all the tiles my dad laid down, 6 were complete and didn’t require any cutting. On top of that, the previous people didn’t do a normal thin-set tile job; they did more of a mud job and elevated each tile about a quarter inch (much harder to make level). Dad did all the tile cutting and laying and I came back on Friday and grouted it. All week, I bounced back and forth between working on a grant and helping him.

On Saturday we played “tourist” again. We rented bikes and explored the island. First we went south and made it all the way to the end of the road at the southern tip of Ambergris Caye (5.5 miles one-way). Outside of town the road become rocky with water-filled potholes and small bodies of water to ford. At the end of the road, there is a palapa bar in the middle of nowhere run by a Jamaican named Robert (who happened to live in Milwaukee for 20 years). When we arrived he came out and said, “Congratulations! You’ve made it! I’ve got a cold beer with your name on it.” Naturally we had to stay. Two expats who are real estate agents for Coldwell Banker stopped by because they there in the area posting For Sale signs on the nearby vacant lots. (Side note: I ran into Robert again on Monday at the immigration office as we were both getting our passports stamped to stay another 30 days. He’s now an American citizen). Then we went exploring north and made it about 3 miles north of town. The island is much prettier up there with cute apartments and more resorts. We turned around when the road got nasty and we got attacked by a swarm of mosquitoes.
Saturday night we had a lovely dinner with the Wilsons at the Sunset Grill, one of the nicest restaurants in town. Chef Victor cooks some wonderful cuisine and was voted Best Chef in Belize a couple years ago. He volunteers at the school about once a month to teach the kitchen staff new cooking techniques and how to balance meals. Sunset Grill has another draw besides great food, feeding the tarpon. There is a population of tarpon (3-4 feet long) that hang out in the marina and wait for tourist to come feed them small fish. They gather at the sound of the bell. I’ve already fed the fish but I made my dad do it and captured it all on tape. Check out the You Tube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69-SGWF2Xe0
On Sunday he left and went back to Wilmette. Maybe now that he’s gone I’ll be able to eat a little healthier for my last few days here. My dad’s sweet tooth took us to the bakery practically every day.




Saturday, November 21, 2009

An Action Packed Week!




This week was so busy that I hardly had time to breath! Monday and Tuesday a volunteer group came to visit Holy Cross from YWAM (Youth with a Mission), a Christian organization that has a campus north of San Pedro. Eight 17-25 year olds came as a part of their outreach program. With Miss Francis and Mr. Vernon out of town, I was in charge of showing them around and finding activities to do with the students. Easier said than done. It's really hard to find ways to help for a couple hours and still have the volunteers feel like their are getting their time's worth. I ended up breaking them up into groups of 2 and assigning them to different classes. On top of that, the school had a weird schedule this week. Friday was Children's Cultural Day (more on that later) but the classes were preparing for that in the afternoon and having regular classes.

The students from YWAM invited me up to their campus Monday night, so I took the island ferry North to visit (there are no cars that can go North of school). I got a lovely tour of the place (a former resort) while the mosquitos were feasting all around. After a classic dinner of grilled cheese with tomato soup (yum), I took the ferry back to San Pedro. I don't know how those drivers can drive at night with no moon out. It was sort of scary, especially since 2 boats had collided the night before resulting in one death.

Wednesday was the big multiplication test for the Standard V class. Their hard work paid off! So far, everyone who has taken the test has scored higher than the 85% cutoff! There were so many 95+% scores that I could hardly keep a straight face walking back in with their tests after lunch! So Monday afternoon will be the infamous ice cream party.

Wednesday was Miss Francis' big 60 birthday! The students put on quite the celebration. Each class or division got a small gift for her and sang some sort of song to her! Miss Francis got everything from a Caribbean jewelry set to a light up Jesus picture to nail polish. Some songs were cute and others were tear jerkers. That night I had a wonderful dinner at a restaurant on the north part of the island with the Wilsons and others!

After dinner a few of us took the boat all the way back to Central Park to check out the Garifuna Settlement Day celebrations.  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garifuna). There was supposed to be drumming all night leading up to the big day. There were a bunch of people in the park, but not so much in the way of dancing and drumming. Many people said that the celebrations were supposed to pick up later at night but as of 11pm is was still a lot of standing around. There was no school on Thursday for the holiday. I had a lazy morning and then went back to central park to see the celebrations. There was a band and people selling food, but it was still sort of a disappointment. I'm sure Dangriga has a bigger party.


Friday. Finally. Childrens Cultural Day. The classes broke up into four groups to each represent one of the main cultures in Belize: Creole, Mestizo, Maya and Garifuna. Each group spent all week preparing posters, food, and music to represent the each culture. Friday we had a fair where students all dressed up and took part in the different cultural activities. There was even a reenactment of the Garifuna landing in Belize!

This morning, Saturday, I was back at school to help out with an English as a Second Language class for about 10 students. Now, I patiently await my fathers arrival in San Pedro this afternoon...







Tuesday, November 10, 2009

The Daily Grind



My stay here in Belize is half over already; time sure flies! I feel pretty settled into the daily grind of life here. A typical day starts with a 6:45am alarm. After some morning yoga, I get dressed and head off to school. Sometimes I’ll make an egg burrito at home or I’ll pick of a stuffed fry jack on my way to school. A fry jack is fried dough, much like a sopapilla. The first morning I ever woke up in Belize (2004), I had a fry jack with fresh jam and honey in Crooked Tree and I have loved them ever since. Since moving here, I’ve discovered the stuffed fry jack, which usually comes with beans and either eggs or chicken. I have tried lots of different fry jacks on the island in search for my favorite. CafĂ© Maya, conveniently located on my way to school, has the best stuffed fry jack for a whopping $1.50. It’s hard to beat that value here.
I get to school around 7:30am to check my email and prepare for the day to come. First class of the day is language arts, which is when I work with my two remedial reading students. They have made good progress in the past couple weeks but unfortunately have a long way to go. We work on flash cards for the first 20-30 minutes and then spend the remainder of the hour reading books, such as Dr. Seuss. Oh, how I love Dr. Seuss. The school library has a great collection with close to 50 of his books.
Next up is math. At the start of the math class I administer the day’s multiplication time test. The kids are still enthusiastically working towards their ice cream party. They look forward to my returning the quizzes after lunch, all hoping to see their score go up. It’s hard for the teachers to give feedback to each student with 35 in a class, so I think the students really like to have the immediate and consistent feedback of the quizzes. One of the standard V boys had a recent epiphany and has started studying hard. He said that he used to skip school to watch TV but now realizes how foolish it was and is working extra hard to catch up. He stayed after school on Thursday to make up a math quiz that he missed because he was working with an English tutor. One of my reading students has also started to take initiative learning to read. She asked me the other day to help her pick out a good Dr. Seuss book to check out. It is events like this that make my day!
After the multiplication quiz, I stay in Miss Laura’s class to help the students with math. As they work on problems, I walk around and help check the students’ work. With a divide-and-conquer method, Miss Laura and I are able to give more students personal attention. Occasionally, I’ll pull students out individually who need some extra one-on-one work to understand the concepts. We’re still working on the basics of addition, subtraction, multiplication and division. It is pointless to move onto fractions, decimals and exponents if the basics are not yet mastered.
Once math is over, I usually head back to the office to grade their quizzes and have some lunch. Lunch at the school is wonderful and usually my main meal of the day. The kitchen ladies cook traditional Belizean food like rice and beans with stew chicken, chicken soup, or ground beef. Last week someone brought coolers of fresh fish in so we had fish fry. Yum! Once a week is either hot dogs or bologna sandwiches, not my favorite but it suffices.
Lately, I’ve been spending the next couple hours in the office working on a grant proposal to build a sea wall on the property and to restore mangroves. Even though I’ve been working on it 3-4 hours a day for the past 2 weeks, it is so easy to get distracted in the hustle and bustle of the office. There are always students coming in and out with every problem you can imagine. Linda, the office manager, is there all afternoon and we have a grand ol' time. Often I get pulled out to do something else like substitute or help out in other classes. On Friday there was an outbreak of head lice and the school had to send about 40 kids home with some lice shampoo. I took some home to wash my hair with just in case.
By 4 in the afternoon, my brain is usually fried and I stop doing work for the day and use the remaining hour that the office is open to catch up with family and friends online. I have been begrudgingly starting the inevitable job search to find a chemical engineering job to start this spring. In between chatting online, I’ve been updating my resume, searching job listings and writing cover letters.
At 5 o’clock the school closes and I head home during rush hour. Rush hour here is a stream of bicycles and golf carts that leave the resorts north of town and stream over the footbridge back into town. While it doesn’t compare to bumper to bumper traffic, it does get a little chaotic to navigate the sand streets covered with water-filled pot-holes and pot-"ditches". When the road gets wet here, as it so often does, the surface becomes the consistency and color of freshly mixed plaster. (Luckily I haven’t slipped yet.)

Now comes the big question of the day, should I cook at home or pick up food on the way home. I cook 3-4 days a week. The problem is that I don’t have a refrigerator and it is really hard to cook a meal for one and not have any leftovers.  Fresh fruits and vegetables are few and far between, so most food comes in cans packaged for more than 1 person. Therefore, my cooking is limited to rice and beans (see picture), Campbell’s soup (very expensive here), eggs, macaroni and cheese (carefully using only part of the box), or pasta with some canned vegetable. So… it is a lot more convenient to stop at a place like Vern’s Kitchen (my favorite) and get stewed chicken with rice and beans, coleslaw, cucumber and fried plantains (if I’m lucky) for $4.50. I get a balanced meal with just the right quantity for a killer price. It’s hard to beat.
By the time I get home, I’ve got about 4 hours to entertain myself with books, movies, and solitaire on my little netbook before I’m ready for bed. Occasionally I’ll hang outside and chat with two of my neighbors. I don’t go out at night by myself here. Living in a very male-dominated society, it is not safe for me to venture out to bars or clubs alone. I don’t want to take the chance of crossing paths with the wrong person at the wrong time. I don’t have much of a social life outside of the school down here, but I knew that would be the case before coming down here.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Halloween, Lots of Rain and an Eye Infection

Friday was the school’s annual Halloween Fair. Most primary schools in Belize throw a fundraiser fair for Halloween with food, games and raffles. Each class was responsible for running a booth or activity at the school. Miss Laura’s Standard V class had a lollipop game. Pay $0.50 to pick a lollipop decorated like a ghost, if there’s a piece of paper wrapped inside then you win a prize, otherwise you just get a lollipop. I tried 4 times and never won a prize. Now I have 4 very blue lollipops that make your whole mouth bright blue. There was a bake sale, dance hall, haunted house, dart games, games of chance and lots of food! The school had a BBQ chicken with rice, beans and coleslaw (a very traditional meal here) for $2.50 a plate. Mr. Freddie and Mr. Jason manned the grills all morning. Some kids dressed up, but most came in “rags,” or regular street clothes. Unfortunately, Mr. Vernon wouldn’t let the Std. V kids wear a costume or rags, so they were all in uniform.



The weather almost put a damper on the festivities. With a rising tide and strong on-shore wind, much of the property was flooded, and many booths were moved up onto the verandas as a result. The fair lasted a couple hours in the morning and was over by noon. In the end, the school raised about $1500. For a community that can barely put food on the table every day, this is a sizable amount. As Miss Francis always says, “Little drops of water, tiny grains of sand.” Unfortunately, this amount won’t even cover this month’s electric bill at the school. Everything is super expensive down here in such a remote location.


When I woke up Saturday morning, my right eye was swollen and I looked like Disney’s Hunch Back of Notre Dame, without the hunch-back part. (Photo available upon request only.) Living a town with virtually no pavement, strong winds mean there is lots of sand, dust and other debris flying around. I think something got lodged in my eye and got infected.




This is the only time I wished I had a working cell phone. Originally, I was going to get a local SIM card, but after a couple weeks I realized that I really have no need for one. Besides, they are really expensive ($0.25 per minute). Anyways, I paid for some minutes on a neighbor’s phone and got in touch with Miss Linda, the school office manager, to find a doctor to go see on a Saturday. 45 minutes later I was at Dr. Lerida Rodriguez’s office south of San Pedro.



I was pretty impressed with her office. It is simple but well-equipped with two patient rooms and a small pharmacy. I think the back room was a baby delivery room. She checked my eye out for any more bits of dust and gave me two antibiotics, one in drop-form for my eye and the other an ointment for the lid and tear duct. In the end, my office visit and 2 prescriptions cost me $75. While this is a bargain on US standards, it’s still more than one week’s pay for most residents here. There is a free clinic (donation requested) but it’s only open on weekdays (8-4:30) and usually only has a limited availability of medications.


The rest of my weekend has been pretty dull. My swollen eye hurts and is making my right eye strain to focus, which has caused a persistent headache. I have to keep sunglasses on while I’m outside to keep more debris from getting in it. Also, I don’t really want to walk in any stores where I have to take my glasses off to reveal my ogre-looking eye, so I’ve been reading books and watching old James Bond movies.



At first, I was a little bummed out that I was going to miss all the hoopla of Halloween. Then it started to rain. When it rains here, it RAINS. It can downpour for hours. Locals call it Nortes, referring to the North-easterly winds that bring persistent rain and wind. Every time I woke up Saturday night it was raining. I’m curious to find out if people still went out to celebrate that night. If it rains in the morning, attendance plummets at the schools because the locals think that if they go to school in the rain, then it will make them sick. I wonder if that applies to parties and bars too.



Luckily the rain brought cool weather with it. Then, it’s at least tolerable to stay inside during the hottest parts of the day. The sea side of the island always has a nice breeze. Although Ambergris is only about 250 yards wide where I live, I don’t get any breeze off the water living on the lagoon side of the island.  During the middle part of the day, it gets so hot that I have to sit right in front of my fan to be remotely comfortable.  I’m writing this at 1pm in the afternoon and it’s quite pleasant lounging in my hammock with the fan on low. As a side note, I think my hammock was the best $35 I could have spent on this island. It beats sitting in a plastic patio chair all the time.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

I'm Still Legal!

 

My visa is renewed for another 30 days! Every tourist coming in gets an automatic 30 day visa, with an option to renew it up to two more times. Luckily there is an immigration office in San Pedro, which wasn’t always the case. I have absolutely no desire to go into Belize City. The immigration officers here are grumpier than the DMV people in the states. Unfortunately, I’ll have to revisit them on November 28th to renew again for my last 6 days.

To celebrate, I bought a new piece of furniture for my little apartment, a hammock. Thanks to the foresight of the builders, there are already hammock hooks in place. Now I feel like a true Belizean with a hammock in my living room instead of a couch. 

Thanks to Mr. Freddie, the handyman who keeps Holy Cross together, I now have a working stove! I was a little hesitant to light it for the first time, hoping that there were no leaks that the last owner neglected to mention. So far, so good. The front-left burner works great and I haven’t burned the place down yet. Speaking of which, a new 2-story apartment building has been under construction next door ever since I moved in. Last weekend, my neighbors told me that there was an apartment just like mine there, but it burned down last Christmas. In the process, my apartment got scorched. I can’t see any signs of it now, but maybe that explains why half of my ceiling has a fresh coat of paint on it. Why not paint the whole thing? My place isn’t exactly big. 

Life at the school is pretty good right now. Miss Laura is back and healthy. The Standard V kids are still in military school, but I have seen lots of improvement. Mr. Vernon has officially created a satellite office in the back corner to keep an eye on the kids. A couple of the students have personally apologized to me for the class’ behavior. They are all good kids deep down but unfortunately have many roadblocks in life. A couple weeks ago I was walking on the veranda of the school when my sunglasses fell off my head and the lenses fell off. One of them slipped through the boards into the contaminated lagoon, luckily landing on a piece of floating Styrofoam. One of the most problematic kids in Std V was nearby and rushed down the steps to climb under the building to retrieve them. Despite all the acting out, they really are good kids. 

I am back to tutoring reading and math. On Tuesday, I gave both my reading students a test to see what their actual reading age is. One has the reading capabilities of a 5 year old and the other of a 6 year old. I can’t imagine how frustrating school must be not able to read anything on the board, tests or in books. I plan to work with these 2 students every day until I leave because I don’t want them to slip through the cracks. This may be their only chance. Unfortunately, Holy Cross doesn’t have the resources or personnel to provide tutoring like this without the help of outside volunteers.  

Each one of these students has a heart breaking story. The more I hear and learn about them, the more I want to give them all hugs. Many of the most troublesome students who act out are dealing with abandonment issues, specifically mother abandonment. They have so much anger and confusion bottled up inside that they take it out in unproductive and destructive ways. Yesterday, I had to report a case of child abuse to the principal because a student came to me saying they had bruises on their back from their step-dad beating them. It breaks my heart. The worst part is that charging the abuser isn’t necessarily the best solution for the child. In this case, the student doesn’t have anyone else to take care of them if the father is arrested. Life in a childrens home is no bargain either. There is just as much violence there from wardens or other kids. This student lives within eyesight of my apartment. All of this is happening so close to me, but my hands are tied. 

I proposed a challenge to my Std V students this week. They are struggling with their multiplication tables. If they can learn them, then we will have an ice cream party. I will give them a test in 3 weeks and if all of them get above 85%, then we’ll bring ice cream in for them. To help them study, I am giving them a short quiz everyday to practice. At the start of each math class, they have 4 minutes to fill out a 30 question quiz. Everyday I grade and return them later in the day for them to study from at night. As of now, they have some work to do as only half of the class is getting above an 85. I hated timed tests when my 4th grade teacher, Ms. Pudis, made us do them. Now I’m grateful and hopefully someday these kids will be too. 

The Halloween fair is this Friday! I’ll take lots of pictures and post them this weekend!

Saturday, October 24, 2009

A Wonderful Weekend Admist Chaos

That last entry was pretty depressing. On a lighter note, last weekend was wonderful even amidst the chaos at school.

I went snorkeling last Saturday. One of the major tourist draws on Ambergris Caye is that the second largest barrier reef in the world is located ½ mile off the coast. Standing on the beach, you can see the waves breaking on the reef. Without the reef, Ambergris Caye would have eroded away a long time ago but the reef protects it from waves and rough waters. At its highest point, San Pedro is less than 10 feet above sea level.

Going snorkeling is a big deal for me. As you may already know, fish and I don’t have the best relationship. In fact, I have somewhat of a phobia towards them. It’s rather ironic because I absolutely love water sports (rowing, windsurfing, whitewater rafting, kayaking…). My policy so far in life is that if the fish leave me alone then I will leave them alone.

I went snorkeling the last two times I came to Ambergris Caye. I figured that I couldn’t come to such a destination without taking advantage of its uniqueness. The only difference is last time I had my dad nearby to latch onto when I started hyperventilating.

I went with one of the local dive shops in town. It was a really slow day so it was quite an informal trip. Just as we were launching, my guide said that we’re going to “Hol Chan Marine Reserve” and “Shark and Ray Alley”. Oh boy. I don’t like Shark and Ray Alley. I went there on my first snorkeling trip in Belize and it didn’t end well. There isn’t a lot of coral there but the fish are attracted to the sound of the motor because they know the guides bring chum. On my last trip, I couldn’t stand how close the fish were to me. The Horse-eye Jacks swarm around you by the hundreds and the 3ft rays and nurse sharks are a little too friendly. My guide last time knew that I didn’t like fish but still got a kick out of throwing chum at me in the water. When I couldn’t take it anymore, I went back to the boat. As I climbed up the ladder, one of the guides lifted a ray out of the water and put it on my back. A “Ray Hug.” No thank you.

So here we go again, back to Shark and Ray Alley. Seeing all the Horse-eye Jacks, I was really hesitant to get in the water but I didn’t want to look like a wimp so I jumped in. Not bad. The Jacks didn’t seem so big or close to me this time. I just kept telling myself that, “They are more scared of me than I am of them.” Then to my amazement, the guide swam down a couple feet and wrapped his arms around a nurse shark and brought it up to the surface in his arms. Touch the shark? You’ve got to be kidding me. After my heart skipped a beat, I touched its back and stomach. Did you hear that, Mom and Dad? I touched a shark! The guide did the same thing with a sting ray and I touched its back too. The trip to Hol Chan was very nice. There are beautiful 30ft deep coral walls there. I never minded Hol Chan because the water is deeper and the fish stay below me where I can keep an eye on them.

Since it was a slow day, one of the guides taught me how to make cerviche, from start to finish beginning with the sea floor. Out by the reef, the water is only about 3 ft deep so looking for conch shells isn’t too hard. The only hard part is finding ones that are alive. After gathering about 8, the next step is to get them out of the shell. A couple hits with the back of a hammer put a hole near one end. The tricky part is to stick a knife in the newly created hole to separate the animal from the shell. A little finessing with a knife from the big opening of the shell and the animal comes right out. I never knew conch have eyes. Separating the meat from the rest of the animal is pretty quick and then it’s ready to make cerviche. Conch pieces plus some lime, onion and peppers make a delicious and refreshing snack.


Sunday was Harvest Sunday! The holiday is sort of like our Thanksgiving holiday but is a religious celebration. Rather than sitting down to gorge oneself on turkey, cranberry sauce and pie, people come together with non-perishable food to donate. The school brought a priest in from the mainland and held a celebration at the high school’s outdoor auditorium. Each class processed in with donations, a bag of rice here and a packet of Tang there. Little by little the donation added up to hundreds of pounds. Each class also prepared a song or poem to recite. Pictured are select students from the Standard V class reciting the poem, Giving Thanks. They nailed it. I was very proud of them. The school also hosted a very creative raffle afterwards. One parent donated a nicely decorated, large sheet cake. The contest was like a blind auction. Participants would put their bids in an envelope for the cake, without knowing what other amounts people bid. The person with the highest bid won the cake. (If you didn’t win, you don’t get your money back, that’s your donation). The highest bid went to Mr. Freddie with a winning bid of $33 USD. The school raised over $200 USD in the process.

So even with all the chaos of substitute teaching for a dysfunctional class, I am still having a very enjoyable time down here!

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Life Turns Upside Down

A lot has happened in the last week, but let's start from the beginning. Last week I was settling into a schedule. I showed up to work at about 8 and spent the mornings working with students for remedial reading and math sessions. I was just starting my second round of sessions with the different student groups when the Standard V teacher, Miss Laura, got really sick with the flu. Then, I became Miss Julie the substitute teacher.

Friday was a 2 beer day. In other words, it was a day from hell. Friday, Miss Laura, the teacher, was absent so I had to sub for her along with Mr. Noel. Thank God for Mr. Noel. I probably would have blown up if he wasn’t there to add some bit of sanity.

This class was out of control. There are several problems that make this class a big mess. First of all, there are 33 of them. I don’t think I ever had a primary school class over 25. The class is so crowded that these kids are practically touching elbows and breathing down each other’s necks.

Second, many of them have no discipline or accountability. The school is trying its best but many of these kids have a horrible home life. They are immigrants whose families came to the area with the prospect of employment in the tourist industry. What this really means is that the parents are uneducated and many are illiterate. The families are big and live in slums. Many are single parents trying to raise 5 or more children. I was talking with Miss Grace, the principal, the other day about the family structure in these households. She was explaining that a common pattern is that a woman will have a kid(s) with some man who will eventually leave. Being an uneducated person, this woman will then go find a new man to support her, and subsequently ends up having kids with this new man. Now you have a step-dad that may or may not accept the child from the previous relationship. This opens the door to an abusive relationship. This isn’t meant to demonize men. There have been plenty of cases of the mother abandoning her kids. These kids have nothing to look forward to because they go home every night to poverty and in many cases abuse. They have no role models who can demonstrate the importance of getting a good education.

Many parents aren’t engaged in their child’s education. Why should they? Education hasn’t helped them at all because most don’t have beyond a primary school education, if that. My parents always knew what I was studying in school; they kept an eye on my grades and held me accountable. These kids don’t study at home and don’t see a reason to study at school. The kids run the streets at night. The boys are starting to get involved in gangs and the girls are on the prowl for older men who will pay them money for their ‘company.’ Unfortunately, some desperate families encourage their daughters to partake in such activities to put food on the table.

Finally, these students are at two levels of education. Some students have had consistent schooling, while others have had breaks where they couldn’t attend school. Most can read but others are illiterate. Most have Spanish as a first language but they can’t read Spanish, only speak it.

Now on to my day…

Teachers here teach the entire day, 8:30-2:45 with no breaks. There are no “cafeteria supervisors.” Teachers must eat lunch and be responsible at the same time. Even with Noel’s help, I did not have a chance to go to the bathroom all day.

I was on my own until about 9:30 when Noel was able to come. He was a God-send. The students, who have no respect for authority, only marginally respect me. They’ll obey just long enough for me to turn my back. Noel has known these students for several years and they know that he doesn’t tolerate mischief. It doesn’t hurt that he’s 6’4’’ with a loud, deep voice.

Language Arts class was an hour long social gathering. I have yet to grade the assignment but I am expecting poor quality, even though I went over every answer in class (talking over the students of course).

Math came next and there was a subtraction post-test. They were fairly well-behaved. At the end of the test, the students were supposed to take out the math workbooks and work on some word problems. The problem was that there are not enough books for each student to have their own. With sharing books comes talking and then the whole class is a social hour again.

Then a police officer came in to talk with the students. Recently, students have started playing this game called “BB Bridges,” or something like that. The rules are that if you say a word with the letter B in it, then someone else playing gets to hit you. Kids that are playing signal that they are playing by crossing their index and middle finger. On Thursday, someone got seriously hurt when he got hit in the head for saying a word with the letter B. The police officer came in to say that this game will not be tolerated. He also talked about how it is illegal to display gang signs in San Pedro and how you can be arrested for doing so. The most common way is people hang a colored bandana outside their pants. People commonly carry a bandana (or “rag”) around to wipe off sweat. The act of hanging it out of your pant pocket has a different meaning. He also talked about some obvious things like the illegality of graffiti and carrying knives (it’s illegal to carry a knife after 6pm because it’s obviously doesn’t have a work-related utility at night). After the police officer left, some boys in the back exclaimed, “Boring.” Then another problematic child starting trying to make the hand signal for the Bloods gang (he failed miserably at it, by the way). Noel brought the police officer back to speak with these boys.

Lunch is at 12 but Noel and I decided that we would go to lunch when all the students were ready. We sat in the front of the classroom until the kids settle down and showed respect. Kids asked when we were going to lunch and we told them that we would when everyone showed us that they were ready. They just sort of shrugged it off and went back to social hour. 10 minutes later they realized that something wasn’t right. Finally, Noel told them all that they had to sit in silence before we’d go to lunch. 5 minutes turned into 8 or 9 due to some uncalled for outbursts. We ate lunch and returned to class because the students used up their “recess” before lunch instead of afterwards.

On to DEAR (drop everything and read). Or should I say, babysit kids that act like 6 year olds. I spent the whole time telling people to leave their neighbor alone and to open their books. It was chaos. One boy harassed another girl asking her to show him her “big breasts.” I had to assign this kid lines to write. “It is inappropriate to ask girls to see parts of their body.” 150 times. Like most kids, he tried to cut corners which made the task harder.

Off to social studies. The teacher didn’t have much planned for social studies other than to copy some notes down. The diligent ones finished in 5 minutes. The rest took 30 minutes.

Spanish. Finally the last class. Today’s activity had 3 parts. I got the class quiet using the class standard of counting to 5. As soon as I opened my mouth to tell them that I would only explain the instructions 1 time, all of their mouths opened and they went right back to talking. I explained the directions once and even wrote them on the board. Of course, every other student complained that they didn’t know what to do. I chewed many of them out because I had already explained it and it was staring them in their face written on the board and in their book. It doesn’t help that many of these Spanish speakers can’t read Spanish. So I have a pile of half finished activities because the students could have cared less.

To top this off, I was in the office expressing my frustration with Miss Francis when she gets a phone call and runs out of the office. 5 minutes later she comes back. Two fathers had gotten in a fist fight over an argument that their 6 year old sons were having. How are these kids ever going to learn when their fathers start throwing punches at each other?

So here I am venting. In all this I’ve learned that I like teaching at the university level and to small groups. There, I’m actually teaching and not baby-sitting. I will never be a primary school teacher, even if it is in the relatively well-behaved Wilmette Public School District. Miss Laura is a saint. She has expressed her frustrations many times to me and every bit of it is justified. Even for a decent pay-check, I don’t think I could go into that classroom everyday for 6 hours of hell. I feel bad for these kids. I hope everyone of them can make a positive change and turn their life around. It’s not too late. I wonder how many of their parents, while searching for work, have wished they had learned how to read, write and do math. If so, they should tell their kids so. It would make a world of difference. The Standard V class will probably be completely different in 2 years, as the first batch of Holy Cross students that started in Infant I make their way to the upper division. These students will have had a consistent and quality education. I’m excited for that day to come.

The weekend was wonderful but unrelated; I’ll come back to that later.

Monday comes and Mr. Vernon, the school director, joined the Standard V class. I would like to start out by saying that Mr. Vernon is one of the most relaxed, even keel and loving people I’ve ever met. What I didn’t know until now was that he was in the U.S. Navy for 4 years. Military school started on Monday for the Standard V students. It will continue until the students show improvement by improving their classroom behavior.

The class rules:

1. Silence. All the time unless given permission to speak.

2. Upon entering the class, students stand tall next to their seats before being told to sit.

3. 10 push-ups for every minute a student is late to class.

4. Push-ups for speaking out of turn, talking back to teachers or showing negative attitudes.

5. Students march everywhere in single file lines.

6. Students eat when told to eat and eat in silence.

7. Physical education is no longer playing soccer but doing jumping jacks, sit-ups, push-ups and wall sits.

This may sound harsh but it’s only temporary, hopefully. I also think it’s necessary. This particular group of children has been problematic for over a year and at this point requires more dramatic consequences to make a point. The end goal is for these children to get an education in order to keep them off the streets. In all reality, there are only 6 or 7 students that are truly problematic. The problem is that the rest of the students tolerate it and join in. If this teaches them anything, I hope it shows them how when people tolerate others’ poor behavior it hurts everyone, whether that’s their class or their community at large. For example, communities that show intolerance to crime by enacting a neighborhood watch program usual experience lower rates of crime. I would love to (and am starting to see) these students stand up to the disruptive ones to condemn their activity, not applaud it. That is more effective than any amount of push-ups.

Today was day 3 of military academy. Mr. Vernon is out of town and Miss Laura is sick with the flu, so Mr. Noel, Mr. Shane and I have been the drill sergeants/teachers. I have definitely seen an improvement but they definitely have a long way to go. Students are concentrating more in class and are actually handing in completed assignments. However, they are still struggling with the basics, like standing in a line without talking. Today, after horsing around in line for 20-some minutes, they finally got their act together as the sweat starting to roll down their face in the hot sun. Hopefully it won’t take them as long tomorrow. In the end, I hope they will learn that life is easier when you don’t cut corners and do things correctly the first time.

As necessary as it is, I hate being a drill sergeant. It’s totally out of character for me. Those of you who know me well know that I like to smile and rarely raise my voice. I was spoiled teaching at the University of Colorado. There, when I opened my mouth, everyone closed theirs because they knew what I was about to say would be beneficial to hear. Those were the days….

Thursday, October 8, 2009

My Humble Abode


Greetings!

I'm almost settled into my apartment in San Pedro. It has everything I need, no more, no less. My apartment is a 2-room wooden buildling on stilts. (Everything here is on stilts because the town is only inches above sea level.) It has 4 walls, a floor and a roof. The walls don't always meet the floor and geckos like to sneak in through the gaps. There's a double bed, countertop, cabinets, kitchen sink, toiliet, concrete shower, bathroom sink and shelves. I just got a stove lent to me, but I still need to purchase a tank of butane to use it. The windows all have screens and shutters to keep the mosquitos out (a real plus) and I have a fan to keep me cool. Compared to my experience camping on BLM land in Colorado for months on end, this is living in luxury. It's not the nicest place in town, but is certainly not the worst. It's clean, furnished and perfect for 2 months.

The neighborhood I live in is very friendly. Miss Francis did a wonderful job finding a location that I would feel safe in. The vice principal of the school lives right in front of me. I can see her front door from mine. I've met a couple of other neighbors as well. One is a tailor who lives with his wife and the other is a construction worker. Times are hard down here, just like in the States, and steady employment has been hard to find for both of these people. A couple of these apartments look like large families live in them. I don't how they all sleep at night but I'd have to guess that they pull mattresses out from the double bed at night to use every square inch of available floor space.


Families here are big and not nuclear. It's actually really depressing to hear about. Yesterday, I was in Miss Joy's Standard VI class during language arts. Their task for the day was to write a letter to Miss Francis about why they need a scholarship to attend High School the following year (a cost of $500 per year for tuition, books and supplies). I helped edit several letters and each one looked the same. There were 4-8 kids and the father was either dead or "doesn't care about us." Many families in the area have immigrated from Guatemala or Honduras. I can't imagine the hardships that a single mother of 8 faces in this town. Many people relocate to Ambergris (the tourist hotspot of Belize) in hope of finding better employment opportunites but are usually met with the extremely high cost of living.


I am finally finding my niche here at the school. I will be doing a lot of remedial work with the upper division students (Standard V and VI). Everyday, I will be working on remedial reading skills with students from Miss Joy's Standard VI and Miss Laura's Standard V. There will be two groups of students based on level. Two students need to start over at the beginning to learn to read. They understand spoken English perfectly but don't know how to read or write it. They know how to physically write (form letters and words) but they don't know what they are copying down from the black board. Those students I will be starting at kindergarten with to teach them all the different sounds and then how to put those together into words. The other group of students can sound words out and read, but they don't comprehend what they are reading.

Everyday, I will also be working on math with 4 or 5 of Miss Laura's Standard V classes.  Right now, we are working on reviewing addition, subtraction, multiplication and division. They have all seen the material before, but their level of mastery and retention is low. We are trying to make sure they have a solid foundation.

The computer teacher, Mr. Shane, is out on paternity leave. His daughter was born in Orange Walk (on the mainland) a few days ago. While he is gone, I will be teaching the computer classes. This might be tricky as there is no curriculum for me to work from.

Last but not least, I have been assisting Mr. Vernon to write a grant proposal to one of the Belizean programs. He is trying to get funding for a mangrove restoration project at the school. The mangrove farm will surround the school by 20 feet in each direction (the school is built on stilts above a lagoon). This will help keep sand from eroding from beneath the school buildings, increase biodiversity in the lagoon, and help keep the bigreef healty by providing a spawning ground for many fish. The school children will also be able to participate in planting seedlings and study their importance.

There is a long weekend this week, in honor of Christopher Columbus Day. I'll be at the school a bit working on some projects but mostly reading books at the Wilsons (they are out of town leading a Cursillo, or walk to Emmaus).

~Julie

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Settling into San Pedro, sort of

Greetings from San Pedro! (where golf carts out-number automobiles.)

My trip here went smoothly, although a little nerve-racking. My previous trip down here has forever scared me and I think I will always hate customs agents. Last time, they confiscated 200lbs of donated school items and wouldn't release them for over a month without lots of pressure from the Anglican Diocese and Ministry of Education. This time, I was carrying over 40 lbs of books that my Grandmother graciously donated to the school library. I could tell the customs agent was skeptical of me and kept asking me if I had brought any items down for the people I was visiting. I kept saying no and she let me pass. I hate lying (or stretching/omitting the truth). Needless to say, I don't think espionage is anywhere in my future.

My short flight from the mainland to Ambergris was short and sweet. The gate agent actually put me on an earlier flight so I arrived an hour early in San Pedro. It's definitely the off-season because my flight had 5 passengers on a 12 person, single-prop Cessna. The school's taxi driver met me at the airport at took me north to the school to meet Francis and Vernon.

I have a small efficiency apartment in town, but I have been staying at Francis and Vernon's house this weekend. They flew to the mainland and needed a house sitter to take care of their dogs. They have a very nice piece of beach front property. I am totally spoiled right now and it will be a culture shock when I move into my "cozy" place.

I spent my first day shadowing the Standard VI class. Most of these students didn't start school at Holy Cross, so they have a lot of remedial work (long division in particular) to do before moving onto high school. I also happened to be there for their anatomy lesson of the male reproductive system. Compared to what I remembered growing up, these students seemed much more engaged in the lesson. I don't think students in my 5th-grade class asked questions. I think we thought that if we kept silent, the awkward lesson would end sooner. It was actually refreshing to hear kids ask questions rather than rely on their peers.

I've spent all day Saturday monitoring the computer lab. The University of Belize is here working with the teachers to get a teaching certificate. Now that the school has a computer lab, the university professor can come to them rather than making all of the teachers travel to the mainland (unrealistic). Most teachers here have a high school education and no teaching credentials. To improve the teachers' skills in the classroom, the University provides summer and weekend classes on the island so that all can earn a teaching certificate.

With the introduction of a computer lab, the teachers now have access to a plethora of teaching aids online. Many of them come to the lab here after classes to find worksheets and course material for their lesson plans. What an improvement from the first years of the school's operation!

Mr. Freddie just came in to notify me that he has to turn the fresh water pump off for the Wilson's house and surrounding area for a while because the water level is getting low. In the words of Dorothy, "Toto, I don't think we're in Kansas anymore." 

Pictures coming soon!